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thessaloniki & kalamitsi beach, Greece

2010-08-24T08:30:00.001-07:00

After crossing the border between Macedonia and Greece, i made some auto-stop until i got to the train station, where i took the train (little, electrical, cousy) to Thessaloniki. It was a quick pass-by through Greece, 5 or 6 days at the most, since i had to be on my way to Istanbul very soon to meet Fernanda, a friend from Argentina/Spain. So, time was running and i needed some sea and sand urgently.
I stayed in Thessaloniki for a day, walked around in this beautiful city strangely looking-like Buenos Aires. The proximity of the Mediterranean and the latin spirit (in it's original sense) was clear. After that, i took an endless trip across mountains and tourists to Kalamitsi beach, settled in one of the tree "fingers" of the Halkidiki peninsula. It's considered as one of the most "wild" and "less inhabited" beaches in the peninsula. For a person from the New World, used to go to "wild and inhabited" beaches all along Brazilian coast, it was a little bit over-civilized. But, nevertheless, it was awesome. And there was a little detail that they forgot to mention -next to that beach, there was another one, quite small and hard to reach, and nudist! Yeah, that was what i was looking for.
So, i spent 3 great days under the sun, swimming and reading. And i got a nice suntan everywhere!
After those days of relax and self indulgence, i came back to Thessaloniki, where the 11 hours bus to Istanbul was waiting. East was getting closer!
Ajde, best for everyone, and have a great new year.

1 & 2. In Florina, on the train to Thessaloniki.

3 & 4. Thessaloniki, city of ancient Orthodox churches and beautiful seaside walk.

5 & 6. On my way to Kalamitsi, and already there, taking a sunbath far away from civilization.

7 . The only picture i took from the nudist beach, since it's so rude to do it.
8. From the top of the hill that separated the two beaches.

9. Goodbye Kalamitsi, goodbye Greece.

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skopje & bitola, Macedonia

2010-08-24T08:29:00.003-07:00

After Spain, i flew to Budapest, where Lea, a good friend from Germany, was waiting for me with a hotel reservation and a handfull of maps and touristic information flyers. In her own words, "she couldn't help being so german". I arrived late to meet her, I couldn't help being so argentinian neither. Budapest is a very special city, sooo beautiful, with crazy buildings, a strange place where west and east europe meet. Sadly, my camera was out of batteries so i couldn't take much pictures; anyway, in a latter post i'll upload some.
We stayed there for some days, and then returned to Zagreb for a short rest. I stayed with my russian friend Ekaterina, who was incredibly generous to share her room during those days, saving my life. Student residence was almost empty, quite odd considering that a month before, when i left, was so full of life.
After that, i headed my backpack to Macedonia, where i was going to meet Vera, another great friend that i met in Zagreb. I took a bus to Skopje, the capital city, that went all the way through Serbia. Something like 16 endless hours that i spent trying to communicate with my seat-mate, a croatian guy that only spoke croatian -and macedonian, yahoo!
I stayed in Skopje for some hours only, it's a nice place but i didn't want to go around alone all day long. Vera was waiting for me in Bitola, her city, so i took a prehictoric train that took me there in 4 hours. I wasn't in any hurry, so it wasn't a problem, but believe me: cows moved faster next to the train rails!
I stayed almost for a week in Bitola at Vera's parents' house. Great people, great food... about that time, i was missing a good old family home. With her and some others friends, we went out on excursions to the sorroundings mountains almost everyday. Prices were cheap, people was nice, mountains were high... such a great time. Hvala ljepo, Verita! And you, Trajche, hope to see you and your fat ass next time!!
I left you with some pics, vidimo se!!

1,2 & 3. Skopje, Macedonia's capital city.

4 & 5. On the way to Bitola, by train.

6 & 7. In a litlle tiny town, near Bitola, surrounded by mountains.

8-15. In Bitola and near by places.
16. With Verita, at the Macedonian/Greek border.

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madrid and barcelona, Spain

2010-08-24T08:29:00.001-07:00

After a week or so in Berlin, i went to Madrid and Barcelona, to visit my friends (Santigo, Eugenia and their little girl Tania in Madrid; Fernanda in Barcelona) and speak freely spanish, at last! I stayed a couple of weeks between both cities, enjoyed some family living (again, at last) and took some great tours on car around the cities. Spain is one of the most beautiful countries to eat, go out, meet people, etc. People is open and warm, but i suppose speaking the same language helps a lot.
In Madrid i did rest a lot, went out and enjoyed the company of my friends and their beautiful house. I've been almost every day to Museo del Prado, where are the largest collections of Goya's and Hieronymus Bosch's paitings, among maaaany others. By the other hand, the museum had a fantastic air conditioning system that was really helpful: the temperature in Madrid was about 35°C and rising. Since my camera failed a bit and did not have batteries, i decided to take a short rest from photography those days.
Afer that, i went to Barcelona for a few days. It wasn't on my plans, but since my friend invited me emphatically, i did go... luckyly. I haven't been to Barcelona in 13 years, and never did take a good tour around the city. So, my host took me around the city, going from the mountains, to the sea, to another mountain, to the beach, to a bar up in a hill where you could see the whole city drinking a beer. And, unlike Madrid, Barcelona is a city extremely bike-friendly (not as much as Berlin, though, since it has many ups and downs), so going out with bike was the perfect plan in the summer. Fernanda is such a lover of that city that she new every square centimeter of it, and which architect made it. That was a great city tour.
We stayed a couple of days in the city and went to visit my cousin Santiago and his wife, Irene, both extraordinary people that met working in Andorra in the winter skying season. After some years in Barcelona, they decided to move to the mountains (the Pyrenees), to a little town called La Seu d'Urgell (don't ask me to pronounce it in catalan, please). That was a perfect day and a half, goodbye trip from Barcelona. The day after, i took a plane to Budapest, to meet my friend Lea from Germany, in my way back to my dear Zagreb.

PS. thanks paula, and please forgive my fragile memory! i've visited my friends paula, juan and their little little little aimé in Barcelona; we had a really nice time talking and talking (one of my favourites activities in Spain, God save the common language), although i'd liked to repeat at least once more. Time was running fast, and airplanes don't wait. I should also mention my friends Belén and Vera from Madrid, with whom we shared some great afternoons, again after 14 years... ufff, as i said, times flies. Ajde, best for you, it was a really pleasure to meet you!!

1. Gothic neighborhood!
2. Next to the fountain down the Montjuïc.

3. At the entrance of the Miro museum, great place.
4. Somewhere in an open market. I'd like a room full oh these.

5. Same market, different food category. I'd like a plate full of these; the room would be very smelly.
6. Next to the Montjuïc, down the fountain. Crazy sculpture made by i-don't-know-who, a very renowned artist/architect.

7. Looking at the Montjuïc, thousands of people waiting for the fountain's show to start.
8. Looking from the Montjuïc, same situation.

9. The show started!
10. Sunset a La Seu d'Urgell, in the Pyrenees.

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berlin, Germany

2010-06-30T17:41:00.001-07:00

After a week of goodbye parties in Zagreb (at that time everybody was leaving, some home, some on travel), i took a plane to Berlin, without a precise idea about how much that city was going to blow up my brains. I was in the mood for a big city; for speaking spanish with my good friend Santiago, who lives there; and, of course, for traveling.
Berlin is an incredible big city, although its population is small considering its size. Its quitness and order (that's not synonymous of boredom, in this case) surprised me; there weren't many cars on the streets, its trains and subways system is outstanding (and expensive, sure); and, perhaps the best thing, it's extremely bike friendly. I stayed at my friend's flat, in Mite neighborhood, 3 blocks away from the tv tower; nice location, indeed. Anyway, i wouldn't mind to live in Kottbuser Tor or it's surroundings, with their bohemian, turkish, coffy style. Neither i would complain to be near the river or one of the many channels that cross the city. I think that almost any place would have been great; that's Berlin!
I went to a couple of theater plays, in both of wich people got undressed. Clubs put a stamp in your arm, with wich you can go in and out as many times as you want, during the whole weekend. Sunlight in summer lasted until 23hs, days were endlesssss! Kebaps were tasty and cheap. Its ALLOWED to take your bike in the trains or subways. Train and subways work all night long from friday to sunday. Flea markets are beautiful, street festivals are very funny and buildings are covered with huge graffities. Bars decorations are outstanding, from cool to kitch, woody or with sinthetic red fur on the walls. Etc, etc, etc.
That's what i call 'first world'.
A big big hug and thanks goes for my german friends, Jelena and Nadja, whom i've met in Zagreb while studying croatian.
Ajde, enjoy the pics!
i own you the description for each one... soon!

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split, dubrovnik and all the sea in between, Croatia

2010-06-28T17:45:00.000-07:00

At the beginning of June, right after the end of my croatian course -a little before in fact- I went with train to Split and Dubrovnik, in the coast of Croatia, taking my beloved bike with me. The Croatian coast of the Adriatic sea is fantastic, not only because of its beaches and waters, but for the cities next to them. I stayed a couple of days in Split, in a wonderful hostel with stone walls, a lot of plants and flowers, and a terrace where to drink endless coffees and beers. The old city of Split is not as known and well preserved as the 'citadel' of Dubrovnik. But, maybe because of that, its more truly alive, and not so crowded of tourist and restaurants to feed them. The whole city is very nice, in fact, and is the second one in importance in Croatia. After walking for hours and swimming every day in the beach, I took a ferry -extremely early in the morning- to Dubrovnik. Those were 8 grate hours of ocean, islands, little old cities, dolphins and the pleasant movement of the boat.
Dubrovnik is so so beautiful, but as I said, packed with zillions of tourists (italians, spanish, russians and, of course, the quintessence of tourists, japanese). So, the city was great, nice, medieval yet modern, well preserved and charming to the bone. But anyway, fantastic beaches of turquoise water were around, and I couldn't resist the temptation. Half a day for the city and its old walls; day and a half for the sea.
I came back to Zagreb tanned by the sun and happy by the sea. My stay in Croatia was close to its end, since my classes were ended. The time for taking planes and traveling around Europe was near.

1. Sunrise from the train, somewhere near Split.

2+3. Old city from Split, crazy streets, alleys and houses.

4. Terrace at the hostel.
5+6. Beaches near the city. I went a little bit further with my bike, anyway.
7. Old city from Split, again.

8, 9, 10+11. From the ferry boat, trip Split-Dubrovnik.

12+13. Islands and walled ancient tiny towns. I think this one is Korčula.

14. Arriving to Dubrovnik.
15. Steep, narrow little streets all around the old city.

16. Main gate to the Citadell.
17. Again, narrow steep streets, this time from above. Ufff, those were hard to climb.

18. Japanese tourists. These people is in another dimesion, believe me.
19. From my room, during the night. I was alone in a three bedroom apartment. Loved that.

20. Panoramic view of the Citadell, south side (rear side)

21, 22+23. Beach next to the old city. Close, clean and beautiful. Sunset swimming, nice view. Super.

24. where are you?!

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sarajevo & mostar, Bosnia i Herzegovina

2010-06-27T16:38:00.000-07:00

To go to Sarajevo the bus heads to the vast slabonija, through its plains and woods. At some moment in the night, it turns right, towards south, and goes down into the mountains of Bosnia, a fantastic land in between the heights. The average passenger can see the sunrise crossing valleys and fields, until he gets to Sarajevo, a long thin city builded following the shape of the river Miljačka, that runs inbetween the mountains.
The city started centuries ago on one point of the river, and it followed growing kilometers until the present. The old town, the turquish quartier, is in the first place, at the base of the hills.
Sarajevo was very interesting, i learned to speak croatian (that's not necessary the same as 'talk'); met two latvians hitchhiking from north to south, with whom we enjoyed a fantastic set of rakijas; and you could listen someone singing curly melodies from the top of the mosques, five times a day. Odlično!
I stayed for a couple of days there and went on a trip to Mostar, little city south of Sarajevo, in the christian region of Hercegovina, through one of the most beautiful landscapes i've seen from a bus or train. Two hours and a half of woods, lakes, bridges and tunnels; pure sun in the sky and some snow in the top of the mountains. After that, you reach a high plateau furrowed by the river Neretva. In center of Mostar there's an old enormous bridge, bombed down in the war and rebuilt some years ago. Very nice place, but the best was the way up there.
Back in town, i enjoyed some strong turkish kafa and a couple of šljivovicas in my favourite bar, Dva Ribara (Two Fishermen), next to the river; met some friends from Croatia and Serbia and went together to celebrate the Day of Communist Youth, May 25, date of Marshall Tito's birth. Fantastic.
The fifth night I left Sarajevo, wishing to come back soon. Anyway, Zagreb was waiting, that kind of strange place I liked to call home.
Ajde, bok!!

1+2. Sarajevo, Turkish neighborhood, early in the morning.

3. Bar next to the river, great for doing nothing for hours.

4+5. Curiosities around the bridges.

6. People playing chess in the parks. People around were and shouting about the moves, about what to do, what not to, etc, like in a soccer game.

7. Click on this one to see the detail.

8+9. Muslim tombs on the hills next to the Turkish quartier. Most of them were from 1993 to 1997. Very impressive.

10. Frizerski saloon where on of my friens worked.

11. Night falling in Sarajevo.

12. Tram interior... they were beautiful, noisy and slooooow!

13, 14 + 15. On the way to Mostar. Incredible landscapes, have to go back there sometime.

16+17. Mostar's traditional bridge, and mosque.

18. Peculiar looking gentleman that kindly gave me his bendition: "Jebi ga!" (something like "fuck you" in bosnian)

19. where are you?!

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otok Krk (Krk island)

2010-06-09T03:20:00.000-07:00

For the closure of our classes, the whole Croaticum group (about 80 persons, among students and proffesors, some of them speaking croatian really good, some of us just babbling) went to Otok Krk, one of the biggest (if not the biggest) islands in Croatia. As usual, the way through Gorski Kotar was cloudy, cold, little bit rainy and beautiful. Better, most of us hadn't slept much (the day before were the last exams, so it was a hard partying night at the residence). Just a coffe on the road and we got into that marvelous tunnel that separates the mountains from the coast, clouds from sun and cold from warm. Slowly we went down the road towards the coast, and the islands started to appear like swimming dinosaurs.
Krk has many urban centers, not really big but very beautiful. The towns are trapped between the sea and the mountain, so the roads are narrow and the buildings tall, with an exquisite mediterranean style, tiny balconies, windows with flowers and an easy going atmosphere everywhere.
At the beggining was still cloudy, but after lunch the sun came out, the water become turquoise and warm. In the afternoom we went to a winery for a degustation of some special wine made in Krk. As you can imagine, half an hour later everyone were drunk from varied types of wines and rakijas. At that time, i stopped taking pictures, and i hope the others did the same thing. On the returning bus, we started singing and continued drinking the wines that were supposed for souvenirs. They never got Zagreb.
Ajde, bok!!

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Let 3, u Purgeraju

2010-06-04T11:22:00.000-07:00

Couple of weeks ago, i went to see 'Let 3', a fabulous croatian band from Rijeka, to Purgeraj, in Zagreb with my friend (and the one that told me about this) Tomislav. They're playing for the last 23 years, cooking slowly in the socialism of Yugoslavia, a quick hit of heat during the 1991/95 serbo-croatian war and the final touch, 15 years of capitalism for proper rot.
Here is what Wikipedia says about them:

The band is popular in Croatia and other former Yugoslav republics due to their original approach to rock music and their obscene live performances. Sometimes provocative and vulgar lyrics and always shocking live performance with lots of nudity often polarise Croatian public. READ MORE

The importance of this event cannot be fully undestand if i don't mention the fact that -until that moment- all i was able to listen to in croatian music was some kind of dumb melodic love, brainwashing, luis miguelish oversweetness, depressing music. It's no my intention to offend anyone... but those were hard times.
I've recently posted a video of them.
Now the pictures, from beggining of the show to the end. Last to pics: me and the singer, and me and tomislav. Enjoy!

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pula & brijuni national park

2010-05-03T15:19:00.000-07:00

Last Sunday, we woke up extremely early and went on a trip to Pula and Brijuni islands, in the Istrian peninsula, at the west of Croatia, quite near Italy. Between Zagreb and Istria you have 'Gorski kotar', a mountainous region with beautiful woods and lakes (šime i jezera, in croatian). It's higher and wetter than the rest of the country, so in winter (zima) it's quite cold and you have a lot of snow there. It would be a fantastic place for camping and easy living, if there were not wild hungry bears around. Anyway, you'd enjoy a fantastic stay before being their lunch.
A long tunnel separates this region from Istria, after wich weather can change drastically, as you can see in the pictures. One hour and a half later you get to Pula, a beautiful little city on the coast of the Adriatic sea (Jadransko more), in the extreme south of the peninsula. It has one of the few coliseums (arena) in the world, and some extremely friendly cuasi-italian population. After walking through the city, we crossed the Fažana strait on a ferry to get to Veli Brijuni, the bigger island of the Brijuni archipielago. It was one of Tito's residences (former president of Yugoslavia)... wise guy. It has a little zoo, with an elephant and some zebras, and an olive tree 1600 years old, but it still looks nice.
The crossing of the strait was, for me, one of the most beautiful moments of the trip. I wish it would have last more, but it's a very short strait.
Ok, here go the pictures. See you later!
p

1. on our way / Gorski kotar landscape
2. on our way / After crossing the tunnel, in Istria side
3. on our way / going down to Pula
4+5. around Pula
6+7. around Pula, looking at the Colisieum
8+9. around Pula, again.
10, 11, 12 + 13. before, meanwhile and after crossing the Fažana strait.
14. Brijuni islands, big map
15. around Veli Brijuni
16. excursion around in a tiny bus, Veli Brijuni. at the center, Najwa from Jordan. at her right, Ignacio from Argentina. in front of her, little bit to the right, Vjollca from Albania (but she lives in Macedonia and studies in Kosovo).
17. taking pictures feverishly to everything that moves.
18. where are we?

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"Tazi Tazi", from Let 3

2010-05-02T16:12:00.000-07:00

a new one for my "Absolutely Top Ten"

thanks Tomislav for the recommendation
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zima u zagrebu

2010-04-24T07:59:00.000-07:00

35mm film
50mm lens
direct shot

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belgrade, serbia

2010-04-09T08:52:00.001-07:00

After having a great birthday party last week (thanks everybody for being there!!) , still with some hangover and the promise of a new one because of Torbjørn birthday, the expedition team headed to Belgrade, Serbia, on a sleepless night train.
Belgrade was the capitol city of Yugoslavia, country that ended quite sadly, with wars in the '90. You can still tell the importance of that city, it's in the buildings decorated with imperial eagles, in the size of monuments and avenues. Quite different to Zagreb. It's also a big city; again, quite different to Zagreb. From the moment you step on Belgrade, you can see the ex-comunist atmosphere around, the old cars, huge dark buildings, shitty trams, people of any procedence, all together... i loved that. In fact, i really liked Belgrade, there was something going on, in the sense i conceive it: street art, dirty alleys, some kind of social friction that makes sparks... I hope i might come back sometime. Besides, i got 1000 dinars left (=10€) that i would love to spend there.
A special mention deserves our host Zeljko, who showed us many parts of his city and guided to some special alternative bars. Viewed from outside, you hadn't given a penny for them; but once inside, it was quite different. Again, i'd love to come back to that place.

Sretan uskrs za sve! Happy easter for everybody!
p

1a. Zemun in front, Belgrade behind (from the hill of Zemun). to your left, the Dunav (Danube, coming from Budapest); to the right (not in the picture), the Sava river (coming from Zagreb).
1b. crossing the Danube, arriving to Belgrad by train. 6am, no sleeping and a fantastic atmosphere of 'feeling tired as shit but i don't care a fuck'. Jigar (singapur) put his camera aside, but just for a minute.
2a. hotel of doubtful category, "Mr. President". anyway, the category of our hostel wasn't doubtful at all: it was 100% no-category.
2b. feeling arty argain, sorry. very alternative-yet-nice-clean bar. there i learned, at last, how to order coffe the way i like it. i should ask for a 'double macchiato' (mostly coffe with a little bit of milk) or 'turkish kava s mljekom' (simple kava is too short!)
3a. ortodox church... looks like an old-school beautiful church, but it's been built in the last years. inside it's not even finished yet!
3b. coming back from Zemun to Belgrad, in the coast of Danube. the name says it all.
4a. below the walls of the fortress that dominates belgrad, where once armies used to aniquilate each other, we have this cute tennis courts.
4b. some random street in the center of Belgrad with a beautiful statement.
5a. Zeljko, a serbian guy we met in Cvjetno (the students residence), was in Belgrad with his family. we went to his place for easter lunch, on Sunday. we were six hungry, messy, international loudy people, even one of us was a vegetarian! needless to say, they were VERY kind.
5b. in the top of Gardoš hill, the beautiful Gardoš tower. climbing a few more stairs, you can have the great view of [1a]
5c. good to know. by the way, in Serbia they write in cyrillics. serbian (that's not exactly the same as croatian) AND cyrillcs it's way too much. i think know i have a permanent brain damage.
6a. cyrillics strike back. i think the problem is that they are quite similar to latin characters, so you have like an automatic impulse to read them. i wouldn't happen with chinese, or arab, tell you that by experience.
6b. serbian expedition crew, from left to right:

Zeljko (serbia)
Anikó (hungary)
Torbjørn (norway)
Justyna (poland)
Gaëlle (france)
Jigar (singapur) was around, taking pictures probably

7a+b. great graffitti on some random wall. belgrad is full of graffittis, and many of them are these huge. The bottom line says "The saint of ("La Santa de", in spanish) Belgrade ("Београд", serbian cyrillics)". it was funny to translate this graffiti: Zeljko didn't know what the first part meant, and i didn't know the second one.
8a+b. on the opposite side of the Danube, quite near Belgrade, you have a whole neighbourghood of houses on the shore of the river, and boats instead of cars. this reminded me Buenos Aires and "El Tigre", even it's not so close (but remeber, Belgrade has 1.5 million people; Buenos Aires, 13)
9. where are we?

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anonymous comments now allowed

2010-04-01T09:51:00.000-07:00

sorry, i didn't know they were turned off
enjoy!

p

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bologna, italy

2010-03-29T12:57:00.000-07:00

Between the 23 and 26 of March took place the International Children's Book Fair at Bologna, Italy. I went as a guest with Pum! Editores, since last year i illustrated a book for them. They were three and a half day of non-stop meeting great people, fantastic places, and visiting the very intestines of illustration around the world.
It was some kind of ethnological experience too, since italians are so particular and different from zagreb people. In a way, they remind me of Buenos Aires, some things at least. It was good, and strange. Anyway, after the italo-madness, i was waiting to come back to this other madness, tha balkanic one.
A special mention deserves my host and friend Renato, in whose house i had so much fun, alchohol, other stuffs and, eventually, some sleeping. And Leonardo, a crazy guy from Rome that i met in the first half an hour in bologna, and we were inseparable mates of adventures until he left.

1. as in everywhere, we have a 'piazza maggiore' (main square)
2. around bologna I - gallery. Bologna has many of these, they are lovely, and having a coffe in there is soooo good. speacially when there's no one, wich is not very often.
3. inside the cathedral, there was a special place for people who actually wants to pray; it was just a room, it didn't bother tourist much.
4. piazza nettuno (neptune's square), with the Fontana dell Nettuno (Fountain of Neptune). it represents the Pope and his power ruling all over the earth (in this case, water: Ganges, Nile, Danube and Amazon). interesting enough is the intensive erotism of the whole sculpture: see for example those four well gifted woman at the bottom, squeezing their tits to get water (4b, the picture is not mine). Italy is maybe the best place for studying double-moral, i love it. even the catholic church has its main office there... it's unbeatable!
5. spring came when i was in bologna
6. night lights
7. it was plenty of these trees in blossom
8. map of italy, as seen on a shopwindow
9. a show onside a music shop of some singer/songwriter called 'Dente'. the music was good, even i didn't undertand much; but i liked the picture.
10. around bologna II - IMPERIO and mr. No One reading the newspaper (no offense)
11. around bologna III - POLLERIA (means 'chicken shop'). there were more than chickens there, as you can see.
12. Bologna International Children Book Fair, entrance hall
13. in the fair, with Leonardo and Shaun Tan (google him, he's really good)
14. in the fair, at the "stick-whatever-you-want" wall
15. where are we?

That's it for now, hope you enjoyed it!

Doviđenja!
p

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ljubljana, slovenia

2010-03-20T19:03:00.001-07:00

Couple of days ago, on Friday, we went to Ljubljana, capital city of Slovenia. We went out early in the morning, having slept 4hs or less, after a heavy drinking goodbye party on the fifth floor, the only one which rooms have balcony and only one bed -lucky bastards! The expedition team splitted in two, some went by car and others (included me) took the train. 2.30h and 3 or 4 passport checks later, we arrived to Ljubljana.
It's a beautiful city, slightly smaller than Zagreb, with mountains all around. In one of them, of course, there's a castle (ca. 1500). Not far from it runs Ljubljanica river, crossed by several very nice bridges. People seemed a little more relaxed than in Zagreb, not to mention the average height was 25cm less than zagrebians. A little bit more like home, despite the fact of having a whole ocean inbetween.
We were walking loosely for almost 8 straight hours, so we spent the last hours in a bar, drinking delicious beer for a change.

1. from the train, already in Slovenia.
2. me (photo session in train's bathroom).
3. in front of an art gallery, some post-sovietish exhibition inside.
4. At a park, near the art gallery (Justyna, from Poland, taking 5 pictures per second).
5. From the same park, looking to the castle on top of the hill.
6. Ljubljanica river.
7. From the castle, looking at the city.
8. From the castle, looking at the castle.
9. where are we?
10. the crew (everybody but Justyna, who took the picture). from left to right:

Bogdan (Romania)
Nikša (Croatia)
Torbjørn (just Teddy) (Norway)
Jigar (Singapur)
Anikó (Hungary)
Gaëlle (France)
Pablo (Argentine)
Miloš (Serbia)

Everytime i see the list of countries, i think 'english is a blessing'.
Hope you like the pictures!

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samobor

2010-03-15T09:58:00.000-07:00

This weekend we went to Samobor, a little town 30km from Zagreb. After a whole week of cold, snow, mud, clouds, more cold and mud, sun raised with all his shiny power.
Those of we who survived last nights' latino & polish parties headed to this beautiful place, looking for the peace and time-off that Zagreb -with all it's bars, pubs, discos and friends- couldn't give us.

1. expedition team (from left to right):

argentine, syria, croatia, chile, argentine, germany, argentine, france and romania.

2. just some colors ;)
3. walking throw the narrow streets of samobor, enjoying the sun VERY MUCH
4. while climbing, we saw this alert sign, but nobody knew what it said (our croatian translator preferred to stay at a coffe rather than coming with us to the mountains).
5. Stari Grad (ooooold city, ca. 13th century). Some croatians we found there told us the meaning of the sign:

"Watch out your head, stones might fall down".

6. some words of my good friend Bogdan.
7. my good friend Bogdan, from Romania.
8. where are we?

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rastoke town & plitvice national park // stop being so beautiful!

2010-03-11T12:17:00.000-08:00

Last weekend we went on a trip to Plitvice Lakes National Park and a little mill town called Rastoke. It's quite near to Zagreb, we traveled only 1.30/2 hs to get there; 40' more and we'd get to the coast and fallen into the sea, or crashed with an island.
I believe pictures speak for themselves. Just let me add it was IN CRE DI BLE.
Hope you enjoy them; I've like one million pics more, but I prefer quality to quantity.

have a nice day,
p

1. 45' coffe stop
2. rastoke town
3. plitvice national park entrance, biiiig map
4. around plitvice
5. hotel, near frozen lake
6. where are we?

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UPDATE / where was that panda-looking thing?

2010-03-10T02:17:00.000-08:00

Find the panda!

Today it was snowing the whole day, since early in the morning. The panda's condition is worst than i thought; he didn't move an inch.
Maybe he's budhist and he's meditating; or maybe he's just drunk. For the last two years or so.

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what's that panda-looking thing?

2010-03-09T13:14:00.000-08:00

Ante repetidas consultas acerca de la naturaleza y procedencia de esta panda-thing, quisiera mencionar que no tengo la menor idea de cómo llegó ahí ni por qué. Aun no he desarrollado el suficiente manejo del idioma local como para dilucidar este enigma. Sólo sé que pasa las horas en completa quietud, en uno de los patios de la Facultad de Filosofía. A diario lo visito para constatar la existencia de signos vitales, pero estoy perdiendo las esperanzas. Hoy nevó un poco y ni así manisfestó la menor reacción.
Les dejo una imagen más reciente, donde pueden verlo en su acostumbrada actitud de reposo.
Continuaremos la investigación.
El anciano en la pecera es un buen señor que ayudó mucha gente en la turbulenta época de Tito y el comunismo. Sus huesos estuvieron escondidos nosecuánto tiempo hasta que cayó el bloque soviético, y hoy reposan en algún lugar debajo de la instalación. La guía turística mencionó algunos otros datos más, pero no presté atención. Era mucho más interesante sacarle fotos al fiambre dentro de la heladera.
Las montañas de Medvenica están a 1.30 hs de Zagreb, hay pistas de esquí y la vista es increíble. Voy allá una vez por semana, en tranvía. En tiempo es poco más que ir a Ciudad Universitaria (para los que conocen el tema); en distancia karmática es como ir al Tíbet. Les dejo otra foto desde la cima.
Por último, la imagen nocturna es la vista desde el 4º piso en una noche de niebla. El río Sava queda a sólo 200 mts de la residencia donde vivo y nos proporciona humedad en cantidades colosales.
Todo en Croacia queda cerca, es una experiencia extraterrestre para los porteños.

Doviđenja!
p

ps. Non spanish readers, please forgive me for not translating this, but i think you might know what pictures show.

zagreb, first impressions

2010-03-05T13:02:00.000-08:00

1. panda bear, faculty's park
2. on the way to university
3. medvenica woods
4. from the residence window
5. cathedral's altar
6. on top of smjele, highest peak of medvenica mountains
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